Ruwanweli Maha Seya – රුවන්වැලි මහා සෑය

He commenced the work on the full moon day of Vesak. Having got the
inscribed pillar removed, the ruler had the site of the thupa (Stupa)
there dug to the depth of seven cubits (about 17 ½ feet) so as to make
it firm in various ways.
He who knew the disadvantages, had round stones brought there by
warriors and had them broken with hammers; then for the sake of firmness
of the site, he had the crushed stones stamped down by elephants with
feet covered in leather, he had the butter clay spread there over the
layer of stone.
The king had bricks laid over the clay, rough plaster over it, quartz
over that, a network of iron over it and , above that fragrant marumba.
The king had crystal spread over that and , over the crystal, stones.
Everywhere in work was the clay called butter-clay. With the resin of
the wood-apple mixed in mercury, a bronze plate, eight finger breadth
thick, was laid over the stones.
The king had a silver plate, seven finger-breadth thick, laid over it
with arsenic mixed in oil of sesamum. This is how the chronicle
Mahavamsa describes the preparatory efforts for the building of the
Great Stupa; the Ratnamali Mahathupa popularly known as the Ruwanweli
Mahasaya and perhaps the most venerated amongst all the stupas of Lanka.
Even today the giant edifice astounds builders. Its great immensity
soaring high into the sky built in a day where technology was mainly man
power.
It was built by the famous Dutugemunu , the warrior king and the
great hero of the Sinhalese people during his reign between 161- 137 BC
on a site believed to have been consecrated by Mahinda Mahathera and
marked by a pillar inscription by king Devanampiyatissa (250 -210 BC).
Further description of the foundation ceremony says that for the
foundation ceremony alone participated many thousands of Bhikkhus from
various countries including monks from Alexandria.
The king also ordered that “no one should work without wages.” So
saying he arranged that 1600,000 kahapanas, many garments, various
ornaments, soft and hard food with beverages, perfumes, garlands,
molasses etc. and the five kinds of fresheners be made available saying
“let one work as one desires and take them as one desires”. Royal
officers inspected accordingly.A lost and an unidentified world
However the stupa cost him 6.4 million coins in wages alone not
counting other expenditure. His luck was such that he found a rich vein
of silver from Ridigama to cover his expenses.
Sadly king Dutugemunu died before the completion of the stupa. While
the work was going on the king fell ill and he sent for his brother
Sadatissa and told him to complete the work. Sadatissa seeing that his
brother’s end was close, covered the unfinished dome with a covering of
white cloth taking pains to cleverly camouflage the unfinished structure
to resemble the completed stupa. And so when the dying monarch was
brought in a palanquin and beheld what he believed to be the completed
superstructure he “became glad at heart”. After Dutugemunu’s death
Sadatissa finished the work of the stupa.
Originally the stupa was constructed in the bubble shape. However the
stupa continued to be embellished and renovated by successive kings who
added further conveniences to the superstructure. For eg- king
Lanjatissa (119-109 BC) faced the terraces with limestone blocks.
Kallatanaga (109 – 103 BC) made the sand court yard. Bhatikabhaya (19
BC – 9 AC) built two railings, one on the summit of the dome and the
other around the topmost terrace and renewed the plaster work.
Amandagamini Abhaya (22 -311) reconstructed the railings and added a
second umbrella over the existing one. Sirinaga (195 – 251)
reconstructed and gilded the umbrella. Samghatissa (247 -251) gilded the
umbrella and put a ring of crystal on it and fixed four great gems on
the four sides of the hataras-kotuva. Mittasena ( 432 ) made a gateway
through the elephant wall.
Dhatusena (459 -477) restored and gilded the umbrella, embellished it
with a precious stone and added decorative work. Mahanaga (573 – 575
AC) restored the stucco work, built the Hatthivedi, the elephant railing
and renovated paintings. Aggabodhi I (575 -608 AC) installed an
umbrella of stone. Parakramabahu I (1153 – 1186 AC) restored the stupa
to its original height.
Nissanka Malla (1187 -1196 AC) carried out repairs and erected a
stone replica of the stupa on the platform. However by the 19th century
the Ruwanweliseya was in ruins and for the first time utterly neglected
with the jungle growing on it.
In 1893 the work of reconstruction was begum by Rev. Naranvita
Sumanasara thero and later continued by the Sri Ratnamali
Chaityavardhana Society.Presently after several renovations and
reconstructions the Ruwanwelisaya rises to the height of 350 feet with a
diameter of 300 feet.
The height of the golden pinnacle and the crystal is 25 feet. The
famous hasti-prakara or the elephant wall upholding the dagoba platform
is a simulation of a line of elephants in front view. Some believe that
they had real ivory tusks in the past. At each of the cardinal points is
a Vahalkada. Some ancient statues and stone work are kept on the paved
stone courtyard and in the shrine room.
These include the statue of Queen Vihara Maha devi, the mother of
king Dutugemunu. The present principal approach to the Ruwanweliseya is
from the east.
If you are lucky to spend a poya full moon night in its precincts it
is an experience to treasure. The night is cool with a slight chill
breeze so much in contrast to the warm uncomfortable rajarata mornings.
The delicate scent of the ollu, nelum, manel flowers carried by the
devotees; the pungent smell of the hadunkuru or the smoking incense
sticks; the white clad devotees as they sit quietly in meditation or
make their subdued veneration at the four altars; and above it all the
majestic, super-white, gigantic Ruwanweli so fair against a moonlit,
star-sprinkled, jet night.
All around the Ruwanweliseya are ruins of buildings mostly
unidentified which have not been excavated or conserved. The few
buildings which have been recognized have mostly been identified by
their architectural features.
An early morning stroll in this area through forests of lost columns,
stonework, elaborate carvings, ponds and pathways is overwhelming. Many
are the mounds yet to be excavated. More are the ruins to be exposed of
maybe monastic buildings, hospitals and sacred edifices. But they all
lie silent; an ancient world lost under the today. Chattering monkeys,
lively squirrels, colourful lizards, birds and butterflies that abound
the premises seemingly the only occupants dependent on these holy
precincts now, where massive shade trees, delicate wild flowers, soft
green grass and sweet wild berries grow and flourish.
North of the Ruwanweliseya and between the Thuparama are found the ruins of some buildings thought to be of an ancient monastery.
A stone balustrade
found on the main structure carries unique sculptures. Professor
Parnavitana details that amongst the carvings can be recognized trees,
cave temples, animals such as the mongoose and birds with human heads.
One detail of the sculpture found on the outer face of the balustrade
on the southern side is very much like the famous sculpture of “horse
and man” at Isurumuniya. He concludes that these sculptures depicted
some definite scenes and were not casually carved.
In close proximity to the Ruwanweliseya (in front of the Lovamaha Pasada)
is an ancient building popularly known as the Ramsimalaka which is
believed to have been the Sannipatasala or the Convocation Hall of the
monks of the Mahavihara. There is evidence that this building had eight
rows of pillars with ten pillars in each row but with no walls in
between them. As such scholars believe that this building would have
been an open structure. Panhambamalaka – Where Elder Mahinda’s body lay
in state.
Between the Ruvanveliseya and the Lovamaha Prasada
the terraced space is known as the Panhambamalaka or the Panamba
maluwa. This is believed to be the place where the body of the great
Thera Mahinda lay in state before cremation.
It is also the place where the Maha-vihara monks assembled to
distribute the four requisites the monks receive, namely robes, alms,
living quarters and medicine.
Adjoining the Panhambamalaka is the alms hall called the Catussal of
the monks of the Mahavihara, built by king Devanampiyatissa in the 3rd
century BC.
This building is found to contain the same architectural features of alms hall found at Mihintale.
A rice boat found here measures forty five feet long and is believed to
have been capable of providing alms to at least three thousand monks.
The same number recorded by the 5th century Chinese monk Fa- Hsien as
living in the Mahavihara
An unidentified small stupa built on a square platform is prominent
enough. According to legend the site is associated with the life story
of a monk named Kujjatissa who possessed psychic powers. Yet others
believe that according to its situation being by the side of the ancient
path leading to the southern gate of the citadel, it is the tomb of
king Elara.
In front of the eastern gate of the Ruwanweliseya are found ruins of
some buildings believed to be that of a hospital. A beth oruva or
medicinal trough was found as evidence here.
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